A brief introduction to Guyanese culture
There are not many countries in the world where you can find people of African descent comparing notes on their favourite Bollywood movie; people of Indian descent slow-cooking a steaming pot of indigenous pepperpot stew at Christmas; and people of Chinese descent dancing to the latest Soca hit on a Saturday night. But then Guyana is far from ordinary.
Land of Six Peoples
When it comes to diversity, Guyana is hard to beat. Often nicknamed the Land of Six Peoples, the population is a multicultural mix of African, Indian, indigenous, Chinese and European ancestries – and every combination of the above that you can imagine. This includes nine different indigenous or Amerindian peoples: Wapishana
(or Wapichan), Makushi, Wai Wai, Akawaio, Arecuna, Patamona, Carib, Warrau and Arawak (or Lokono).
Taste of Guyana
Guyana’s cultural diversity is evident in its national cuisine too; a melting pot of cook-up, bake and saltfish, curry and roti, fried fish and plantain chips, chowmein and much more besides. Guyana was once known as the breadbasket of the Caribbean and life still centres around food and agriculture here. This means fresh fruits, vegetables, fish and meat – often straight from the farm, sea or someone’s backyard. As the original home of Demerara sugar, it’s no surprise that there are lots of sweet treats to try too: from Indian classics like gulab jamun, mithai and parsad; to bean-stuffed Chinese cakes, African-style conkie, and jam-filled pine tarts.
Religious & linguistic diversity
In Guyana, Christian churches sit peacefully alongside Hindu mandirs and Muslim mosques, as well as less-visible remnants of African and indigenous spiritualism. There’s diversity in language too: walk the streets and you’ll hear a multitude of tongues, from the Spanish and Portuguese of newly arrived Venezuelans, Cubans and Brazilians; to varieties of Guyanese Creole and English; and smatterings of Arabic, Mandarin, Hindi, and Guyana’s nine indigenous languages.
Public holidays
Guyanese pay respect to the traditions of their varied cultural heritages through public holidays, official celebrations and inclusive programmes at concerts and shows. Everybody knows February is Mashramani (or ‘Mash’) marking Republic Day; Phagwah (Guyana’s Holi Festival) is next; then Easter is the time for kite flying on the seawall and the Rupununi Rodeo in Lethem. May means Independence Day and the Guyana Carnival, August 1 is Emancipation Day, September brings Indigenous Heritage Month, October is lit up by Diwali, and so on.
What’s on?
Outside of official national events it can be hard for new arrivals to find out what social happenings are taking place in Georgetown. There’s no Time Out-style guide to pick through. Traditionally, promoters have relied on advertising in the print and broadcast media, but social media promotion is gathering pace as a way of highlighting events, new openings and special offers to a wider audience. So keep an eye on the ‘events’ tab on Facebook, ask to join organisations’ mailing lists, and listen carefully. Word of mouth is key.
Expert advice
More information on annual and one-off events can be found via Visit Guyana and Explore Guyana (the official
publication of the Tourism and Hospitality Association of Guyana). Each has a strong social media presence, a website and their own print magazine offering advice and inspiration; on tours to take, trips to make, and food to eat in Georgetown and beyond. They also publish tips on getting around the country by plane, boat or bus;
interviews with seasoned travellers and expert locals; and profiles of hidden gems you may never have otherwise have discovered.
Six degrees of separation
With a population of less than one million, don’t be surprised if a brand-new acquaintance knows who you are before you even say ‘hello’. Always greet your neighbours, colleagues or friends with ‘Good morning’, ‘Good day’, ‘Good afternoon’ and ‘Good evening’ or ‘Goodnight’. Build up a network of helpful people, from the guy who cuts the grass in your yard and to the plumber who lives around the corner, to the carpenter in the next village and the friend who works at GWI or GPL.
Street harassment
Not all interactions are positive. Women visiting Guyana may feel uncomfortable walking along the street due to persistent and sometimes crude catcalling. Patriarchal influences can also be found in the strict dress codes and ingrained gender roles still enforced or encouraged in some social or professional settings – be it who does the cooking, childcare and cleaning; or who pays the bill. Visitors may be offended by overt references to race and weight often used to call or describe someone.
Changing times
Caribbean in temperament yet South American in geography, Guyana is unique. How its culture will change as the oil and gas industry grows and more people arrive in search of new opportunities remains to be seen. Already the presence of Brazilian, Venezuelan and Cuban visitors is having an impact in terms of the economy, trade and even the music being played on the radio. However, as much as people may lament the crime rate, corruption and bureaucracy, Guyanese are still very proud of their country. Just wait till someone starts singing local music legend Dave Martins’ patriotic hit ‘Not a blade of grass’, and see how many people join in.
Etiquette Essentials
Etiquette in Guyana can be a somewhat confusing mishmash of strict formality and easygoing flexibility, perhaps due to its diverse mix of cultures and the lingering legacy of colonialism. If you are doing business in the country, or plan to, it pays to know the protocols and play by the rules – or at least be aware of them.
Greetings matter
Addressing colleagues, even bosses, by their first name is common is some countries, but in Guyana it is respectful to use Dr, Mr, Mrs, Ms or Miss followed by the person’s surname – or their title if they hold a prominent position such as Minister, Major General or Toshao (an indigenous village leader). If you are not sure, take your cue from the individual in question: if they use your surname, do the same; if they ask you to use their first name, then return the gesture.
Dressing the part
Outside many government departments and public buildings in Georgetown you’ll find a ‘dress code’, listing forbidden items of clothing such as short pants, sleeveless tops and slippers (flip flops). Unless you’re hopping from one air-conditioned building to the next, you’ll get pretty hot wearing multiple layers all day. The secret is to be prepared for all eventualities. Men, carry a jacket or have one hanging in your car ready for high-level executive meetings where a suit, long-sleeved shirt and tie is the norm. Women, bring a shawl or cardigan in case the AC is on too high or you need to cover sleeveless arms.
Behind the scenes
Doing business in Guyana can be an informal affair, with many business meetings or deals taking place over a few drinks in a bar. There’s also the uncomfortable reality of unofficial payments to speed up work or decisions – despite the fact that corruption and bribery are illegal under the Criminal Law Act. The World Economic Forum’s Global Competitiveness Report 2015-2016 identified inefficient government bureaucracy, corruption and access to financing as the top three most problematic factors for doing business in Guyana. That’s not to say, though, that you have to follow suit. Be an example: set your boundaries and let your principles be known.
Guyanese time
You may find a flexible attitude to time and time-keeping in Guyana, which can range from clients turning up late to slow decision making – but it is possible to negotiate these challenges. When you have a meeting, for example, outline that you’ll be there a few minutes before. “It sends a message that you plan to start on time,” advises business coach Vishnu Doerga of ActionCOACH Guyana. He also stresses the important of having a plan and communicating effectively: “In Guyana, the level of employee engagement is still relatively low, which means when interacting with private and public sector employees it is important to outline the objective of that meeting or visit – and your expectations.” This means knowing who is facilitating the process, preparing an agenda or list of items to be covered, and setting a clear start and end time.
The personal touch
While you may be used to corresponding with colleagues, clients and suppliers online, email isn’t always the best way to get a quick response in Guyana. If you do email, outline when you need a response by and follow up the email with a call. Picking up the phone is usually the best way to get things moving quickly.
Paying your way
Generally if you’re invited to a business lunch, it is the responsibility of the host to pay. If it is a larger occasion with several members of staff from different companies, each company usually pays for their own employees. If you’re unsure; simply ask, or do as others do. “Some people think that if someone else is paying for the meal they can order the most expensive thing on the menu,” notes Jennifer Flatts, a certified Etiquette and Protocol Consultant, “but the guest should take their cue from the host in terms of pricing of food.” So if your host orders a sandwich and coffee, don’t go for the lobster and Champagne.